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Wednesday, October 31, 2012

Day of the Dead, Xoxocotlan, Oaxaca, 2012

Oaxaca's neighbor city, Xoxocotlan, is famous for its celebration of Muertos, or the Day of the Dead. Usually its old and new cemeteries are glowing with candles, the graves covered with flowers and surrounded by the families of departed souls who are expected to return for a visit at this time. The celebration tonight, October 31, 2012, was dampened by an unseasonable rain. When we saw the cemeteries, there were relatively few flower-decked, candlelit graves, although some families were starting to arrive for the night. However, we were able to catch a few colorful moments--

A young boy stands guard at a family grave

A very young Catrina

A Catrina in a sand painting

Death playing his magic flute

A giant figure of Death, dancing in the street





Tuesday, October 30, 2012

Day of the Dead--a few more photos

A walk through the historic center of Oaxaca today led to several eye-catching Catrinas (lavishly dressed skeletal figures), plus a striking sand painting.

Helpful directions

Sand painting commemorating 
assassinated members of Oaxaca's teacher's union

A Catrina and her musical friend

Fetching, for a skeleton

Sunday, October 28, 2012

Oaxaca prepares for Dia de los Muertos -- Day of the Dead

Oaxaca's Day of the Dead celebration is a fascinating cultural experience. Oaxacans believe that the spirits of dead relatives come back for a visit each year at this time. To guide the fieles difuntos, faithful dead, back home and to ensure that they are content, Oaxacans build elaborate altars covered with marigolds and other orange flowers, and load them with the favorite food, drink, and possessions of the departed. Skulls, skeletons, and elaborately dressed figures of dead people appear everywhere. Here are a few seen on the streets today:

An elegant Catrina in yellow

Death overlooks a busy corner in Oaxaca

Another Catrina in pink and blue

Photos by Robert Adler. May be re-used with attribution per Creative Commons.

Friday, October 26, 2012

Insider's introduction and orientation to Oaxaca

Long-time Oaxaca resident Stan Gotlieb offers an invaluable service to anyone curious about visiting, spending time in or considering living in Oaxaca. Every Monday from 11 a.m. to 12:30 p.m. at the Oaxaca Lending Library he provides a free, informal introduction/orientation to Oaxaca. Stan and his wife, Diana, have lived in Oaxaca for many years, and can provide anyone from a first-time visitor to someone who has spent many months or even years here, with useful, in-depth information and insights. You can learn more about Stan and Diana at their website, http://www.realoaxaca.com/. You'll see there that Stan also offers private, individualized orientation sessions to individuals or small groups for a nominal fee.

Stan Gotlieb and Diana Ricci                                   with permission

Thursday, October 25, 2012

Day trip to the Sierra Norte

Many residents and visitors love to leave the hustle and bustle of Oaxaca to experience the crystal-clear air and tranquility of the Sierra Norte, the mountain range north of the city. The region is dotted with indigenous pueblos, including Gueletao, where Mexico's only indigenous president, Benito Juarez, was born. The region supports a lot of eco-tourism, with simple cabins to rent, hiking trails, zip lines and other nature-oriented activities. It's also home to a number of trout-raising enterprises and rustic restaurants specializing in fresh trout.

Here's a quick log of a recent visit to the area:

Statue of Juarez, Gueletao, Oaxaca

Brigida Garcia, Benito Juarez's mother

Death mask of Juarez, Museum, Gueletao, Oaxaca


Charming pond next to Juarez museum, Gueletao, Oaxaca



Farmed trout at Truchas Cuachirindoo, above Ixtlan

Lunch on its way--could not be fresher!





                                                              Side view of the Church of Santo Tomas, 1734,  Ixtlan, Oaxaca    

Altar, Santo Tomas, Ixtlan, Oaxaca

The church is full of fascinating religious iconograpy

Photos by Robert Adler. use with attribution per Creative Commons

Tuesday, October 23, 2012

One of Oaxaca's most striking celebrations centers on the statue called El SeƱor del Rayo, a depiction of Jesus carved in Spain in the 16th Century. Legend has it that a stroke of lightning--un rayo--started a fire that destroyed everything in the church where it stood, except for the statue itself. That initial miracle has given the statue the reputation of working miracles for petitioners. The statue is venerated every October 23 with prayers inside Oaxaca's Cathedral where it now stands, which overflows with flowers for the occasion, and with a huge procession, or calenda. Here are some photos from the 2012 celebration:


 The miraculous statue surrounded by flowers


Devotees waiting under flower-decked columns to approach the statue


Part of the procession, or calenda. This crucified Christ is not a statue!


A more joyful part of the calenda